{"id":3061,"date":"2026-06-30T20:34:22","date_gmt":"2026-06-30T20:34:22","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/denvermovingchronicle.com\/?p=3061"},"modified":"2026-06-30T20:34:22","modified_gmt":"2026-06-30T20:34:22","slug":"gender-bending-is-now-part-of-menswear-paris-runways-show-how-mainstream-it-has-become","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/denvermovingchronicle.com\/?p=3061","title":{"rendered":"Gender-bending is now part of menswear. Paris runways show how mainstream it has become"},"content":{"rendered":"<div>\n<div>\n<div>\n<ul><\/ul>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<p><strong>PARIS<\/strong> | This was men\u2019s fashion season. The women were everywhere.<\/p>\n<p>They walked the coed Paris runways at Amiri and Ami. At Vetements, women modeled many of the \u201cmenswear\u201d looks, and Sharon Stone closed the show in thigh-high boots.<\/p>\n<p>Inside fashion, none of this was eyebrow-raising.<\/p>\n<p>The gender blur was not happening on the margins. It was built into Paris Men\u2019s Fashion Week, which ended Sunday, where a multibillion-dollar luxury industry shows what it thinks men will want next.<\/p>\n<div><\/div>\n<p>It has reached menswear advertising, too.<\/p>\n<p>A pregnant Rihanna became the face of Pharrell Williams\u2019 first Louis Vuitton men\u2019s campaign in 2023, appearing on a giant Paris billboard with her baby bump exposed and arms full of Vuitton bags.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cIt\u2019s not something completely new,\u201d said Joseph McBrinn, art historian at Ulster University.<\/p>\n<p>Women have paraded through menswear collections for so many seasons that it barely registers with fashion insiders anymore \u2014 even as a Gen Z mainstream, only now catching up to the gender-bending David Bowie flaunted in the \u201970s, treats it as the cutting edge.<\/p>\n<p>In recent decades, he said, fashion has moved \u201cfrom very binary understandings of gender and fashion to something which is today very fluid\u201d \u2014 reflective, he added, of how younger people now think.<\/p>\n<p>The deeper confusion: They do not always travel together.<\/p>\n<p>At Issey Miyake\u2019s IM Men, by the brand\u2019s account, the cast was entirely male \u2014 yet the show still read as androgynous.<\/p>\n<p>The border between his and hers keeps eroding, on the body and on the calendar. It has not vanished, and its erosion owes as much to money as to gender.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cAndrogyny only works because people understand what is being crossed,\u201d said Andrew Groves, menswear systems professor at the University of Westminster.<\/p>\n<p>The real story is not that menswear has escaped its rules, but that designers are finding new freedom inside one of fashion\u2019s narrowest rule books, Groves added.<\/p>\n<p>The runways look like they are erasing gender; the categories are exactly what make the gesture legible.<\/p>\n<p><strong>This season\u2019s men\u2019s clothes borrowed freely from womenswear<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>For Jonathan Anderson, Dior\u2019s first ever designer to oversee both its men\u2019s and women\u2019s lines, models wore pearls, pink and sheer blouses with soft bows at the throat; the collection, he told reporters, was about how he \u201cconnects with the feminine.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>At Saint Laurent, men bared their chests in second-skin tops, wore briefs cut from leather and walked in transparent shoes lifted from the women\u2019s runway.<\/p>\n<p>The house opened Paris Men\u2019s Week, and its menswear push is not only aesthetic: Saint Laurent has reportedly set a target of doubling men\u2019s sales by 2030.<\/p>\n<p>Many houses have folded men\u2019s and women\u2019s collections into one coed runway. Once provocations, such shows became a calendar strategy by the late 2010s \u2014 part creative, part convenient, mostly commercial.<\/p>\n<p>When Anthony Vaccarello took over Saint Laurent in 2016, he scrapped its separate menswear show and sent men down the women\u2019s runway, restoring a men\u2019s show only in 2018; Vetements and Balenciaga merged theirs around then too.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cI don\u2019t think having men and women on the same runway means a greater belief in nonbinary genders,\u201d said Valerie Steele, director of the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology. \u201cThat\u2019s really more of an economic thing.\u201d<\/p>\n<p><strong>One show costs less than two<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>A mixed approach consolidates the media moment and lets a designer tell a single story. That matters in a luxury market under pressure \u2013 it\u2019s been a weaker period for the sector in the last couple of years.<\/p>\n<p>Women already buy menswear, which helps explain why Ami, founded in 2011 as a men\u2019s brand, added womenswear.<\/p>\n<p>The blurring of the clothes is the older story. Long before \u201cnonbinary\u201d was common usage, Yves Saint Laurent put women in men\u2019s tailoring in 1966, Bowie smudged the line in the \u201970s and Jean Paul Gaultier sent men out in skirts in the \u201980s. Fashion ran years ahead of the language.<\/p>\n<p>Suzy Menkes, the veteran fashion critic, sees the history stretching even further back. Men once wore \u201cthe most dramatic, precious, glamorous and priceless jewels,\u201d she noted, without doubting that they were suitable for men. The 20th century, she said, narrowed that idea of male dress before fashion began reopening it.<\/p>\n<p>The exchange has never been equal: A woman in a man\u2019s suit is, 60 years on, unremarkable; a man in a skirt or heels still reads as transgression.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cWomen\u2019s bodies are still consumed in ways that men\u2019s bodies are not,\u201d McBrinn said.<\/p>\n<p>Men, he added, \u201ccan still be seen as deviant\u201d when they cross the line.<\/p>\n<p>Off the runway, the moment is volatile: combative online masculinity, \u201cmanosphere\u201d influencers like the Tate brothers, a wave of anti-trans laws.<\/p>\n<p>Last year, J.Crew set off a conservative uproar by marketing a pink sweater to men \u2014 even as Dior, Paul Smith and Willy Chavarria sent pink down their own runways. The fight was cultural, but not only: reports said pink apparel sellouts rose 17% year-on-year in spring-summer 2025.<\/p>\n<p>Menkes said color is part of the same story. Postwar Europe helped harden the idea that some colors were \u201csuitable\u201d for men, she said, and it took \u201ca surprisingly long time\u201d for shades such as lilac or pale pink to be accepted as male choices.<\/p>\n<p>Steele said openness to androgyny crested in the 1920s, the \u201970s and the \u201990s, then receded each time.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cEverything is moving to the right,\u201d McBrinn said. \u201cFashion may go back to being much more entrenched within gender binary\u201d \u2014 perhaps, he warned, within five to 10 years.<\/p>\n<p><strong>The stakes run past the runway<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>After years of expanding legal protections for LGBTQ+ people, progress is reversing in many countries, with transgender people at the center of the fight.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cWe are seeing tremendous backlash internationally against trans people,\u201d Steele said.<\/p>\n<p>In the end, Steele said, the runway matters less than the office and the dinner table. People shift when they see androgynous clothes on friends, colleagues or men around them.<\/p>\n<p>Increasingly, they are just clothes.<\/p>\n<\/p>\n<p>Read more <a href=\"https:\/\/denvermovingchronicle.com\/?p=3055\">Trump administration\u2019s Title IX enforcement questioned in Colorado school cases<\/a><\/p>\n<\/p>\n<\/p>\n<\/p>\n<\/p>\n<\/p>\n<\/p>\n<\/p>\n<\/p>\n<\/p>\n<\/p>\n<p>Read more <a href=\"https:\/\/denvermovingchronicle.com\/?p=3057\">Forensic pathologist Casey Bitting chose to succeed Kelly Lear as Arapahoe coroner<\/a><\/p>\n<\/p>\n<\/p>\n<\/p>\n<\/p>\n<\/p>\n<\/p>\n<\/p>\n<\/p>\n<\/p>\n<p>Read more <a href=\"https:\/\/denvermovingchronicle.com\/?p=3059\">Film academy invites 529 new members, including Jenna Ortega, the Safdie brothers and Jacob Elordi<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>PARIS | This was men\u2019s fashion season. The women were everywhere. They walked the coed Paris runways at Amiri and Ami. At Vetements, women modeled many of the \u201cmenswear\u201d looks, and Sharon Stone closed the show in thigh-high boots. Inside fashion, none of this was eyebrow-raising. The gender blur was not happening on the margins. [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":3060,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1101,1102,149,150,152,1103,1104],"tags":[4936,4937,4938,4939,4940,4941],"class_list":["post-3061","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-0-no-apple-publish","category-1gridmagazine","category-a-town-magazine","category-celebrities","category-sentinel-lifestyle","category-uncategorized","category-z-other-galley","tag-ami","tag-amiri","tag-dior","tag-issey-miyake","tag-saint-laurent","tag-vetements"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.6 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Gender-bending is now part of menswear. 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